UPPER EAST SIDE. Ahhh, the Sunday Brunch. When it's done well, you simply can't beat it, and 212 does it very well, indeed. Trademark dishes from the regular lunch and dinner menu make appearances, such as grilled artichoke and chopped arugula salad, pan-seared tuna rolls, and penne with chicken and roasted tomatoes. But you'll also find about 35 other things, including create-your-own omelettes, sandwiches and burgers, fresh fruit smoothies, and waffles. It's also the only restaurant in town that offers baby food at brunch, which makes it quite popular with families. Prix-Fixe lunch $20, Monday-Friday.

EAST VILLAGE. This intimate restaurant is one of the East Village's best. True to its name, 26 Seats doesn't offer much in the way of space, but what they do offer is excellent French dining at an affordable price. Starters such as Saucisson Lyonnais (garlic sausage with potatoes and Balsamic vinaigrette) and Pissaladiere (caramelized onion tart) set the tone for well-executed entrees. Try the Poulet Moutard, a grilled Balsamic chicken breast with ginger and sautern mustard, or the Entrecote au poive, a ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce. A small but worthy wine list and daily soup and dessert specials will complete your meal. Reservations suggested.#13;#10;

BROOKLYN. Housed in a picturesque stone storefront with large windows, this French dining room serves up exciting creations, such as veal tongue confit or steamed mussels in Thai curry. The wine list, offering over 40 organic varieties, enhances the offerings. $25, 3-course prix fixe menu available. TRAIN: A, F to Jay St-Borough Hall

WEST VILLAGE. Charm and romance exude from the redbrick walls and weathered timbers of this West Village keeper. Yes, A.O.C. Bedford is a terrific place to take that someone special, and guests can rest assured that every nuance is impeccably handled. The French regulatory term "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" is granted only to high-quality products (Spain and Italy employ comparable designations); here, this translates into superbly done dishes like free-range lamb with herb crust, suckling pig with braised endive, and paella marinera. The selection of reds and whites, too, is impressive. B.Y.O.B. on Sundays. Three-course prix fixe: $32. TRAIN: A, E, C, B, D, F to W 4th St; 1, 9 to Houston St

MIDTOWN WEST. When Alain Ducasse opened his much-anticipated restaurant in Midtown, he did so to much fanfare and media attention. He did not disappoint. Each dining area is exquisitely decorated, with artwork and antiques from the owner's private collection. Guests are presented with a veritable parade of decadence ­ a wax-sealed wine list, white-gloved servers and a meal worth every cent of its hefty price-tag. Featured entrées on the prix fixe menu may include anything from breast of squab or duckling wrapped in fig leaves to spinach-wrapped lobster or lamb roast breaded with dried fruit. When the smoke clears, you sign your bill using the Montblanc pen of your choice. As can be expected, you'll want to save room for dessert. Reservations are necessary. Prix fixe menus: 3-course $150, 4 course $185; tasting menu $265. TRAIN: 1, 2, 3, 9 to 59th St-Columbus Cr