UPPER EAST SIDE. Break away from ordinary dinner fare at this well-received restaurant, which tantalizes taste buds with fragrant, earthy spices and terrific, charcoal-broiled dishes. Start with bolanee kadu (a fried pumpkin turnover) before digging into classics like tandoori chicken or chicken korma. Shrimp, lamb, cod, and beef kebabs also get a spicy rubdown before they're broiled to juicy perfection. Vegetarians have much to applaud as well, thanks to zesty dishes of eggplant, okra, spinach, and zucchini. Affordable prices. TRAIN: 6 to 77th St

MIDTOWN WEST. For Turkish cuisine just a few strides from Time Square, this stylishly appointed dining room is hard to beat. Indeed, folks pack the long, narrow space nightly. The mezes include superb renditions of zucchini pancakes, whipped red caviar, eggplant salad and stuffed vine leaves; meanwhile, mains run from traditional Turkish gyro to grilled trout with arugula and carrots. As to dessert, few things cap a night like Turkish coffee and rice pudding. At just under $20, their three-course prix fixe option allows diners to feast on dishes like barbequed meatballs, falafel and baby okra. TRAIN: B, D, F, V to 47th-50th St-Rockefeller Center; E, V to Fifth Ave-53rd St

MIDTOWN EAST. This Mid-Eastern restaurant, whose name translates as simply "the orchard," is popular with locals, who appreciate Al Bustan's homey atmosphere and peach-hued interior. If you are very hungry, begin your meal with one of the mezes (appetizers); for example, try the stuffed grape leaves or smoked eggplant salad. Next, move straight to one of the excellent entrées like makanek (lamb), shish taouk (chicken), hummus served with sautéed lamb and pignoli or samboussek (stuffed dumplings). If you still have room left, Al Bustan's dessert offerings include a sampler, baklava and their ever-popular butter cookies. Reservations are suggested. Smart casual dress appropriate. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6 to 51st St

MURRAY HILL. Hummus-hued walls, hardwood floors and colorfully upholstered banquettes characterize this intimate Murray Hill spot, an enterprise that began life as a Turkish-style pizza joint. The pizzas are still there (and as delish as ever), but the menu has expanded greatly from those early days. The usual suspects of hot and cold mezes highlight the array of opening dishes, and the always formidable chef's suggestions include pepper steak, homemade manti and lahana dolmasi (cabbage stuffed with lamb, rice and fresh dill). Stop by on Tuesdays around 9pm, and you'll be able to catch the belly dancers. TRAIN: 6 to 33rd St

HELL'S KITCHEN. Small and simple, this Israeli eatery draws rave reviews from those who've been here. Tasty sandwiches and scrumptious kebabs please the palate while prices please the pocketbook. Try the great tasting falafel, hummus or salads. Top your meal off with a piece of rich baklava. When you ante up, bring the real stuff as this place has a cash only policy. Reservations not accepted. Casual attire. TRAIN: C, E to 50th St