NOLITA. Attractive, contemporary dining room specializes in comfortable classics like meat loaf, steak and fries, and fried chicken.

MEATPACKING DISTRICT. Tucked away in a lately trendy area of the West Village known as the Meatpacking District, 5 Ninth serves as a link between the past and the future. On the one hand is the restaurant's setting: It's a beautiful 19th century brownstone that has been stylishly refurbished yet retains its age-old charm. On the other hand is the eclectic cuisine, which draws inspiration from all over the world, resulting in outstanding seasonal dishes like roasted monkfish with Sichuan bean paste or grilled Spanish mackerel with charred lamb heart, capers and radish. Three-course lunch prix fixe: $24. TRAIN: A, C, E to 14th St

SOHO. With a menu almost exclusively devoted to seafood, Aquagrill is an excellent pick for diners who want great choice and unparalleled options. Try lobster or salmon prepared to your specifications, or come early, eat oysters and people-watch. No matter what you do, save room for a perfectly prepared dessert. Locals also rave about Aquagrill's brunches, and single diners can get a great meal at the bar. Reservations recommended. Dressy casual attire. TRAIN: C, E to Spring St

UPPER EAST SIDE. Dining at Arabelle means indulgent service, a majestic setting and appropriately fine food. The French-style brunch is widely regarded as one of the best on the Upper East Side, thanks to traditional eggs Benedict, a seafood buffet, brioche French toast, omelets, and seared salmon. Brunch, lunch and dinner reservations are suggested. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6 to 59th St; 6 to 68th St-Hunter College; N, R to Lexington Ave

MURRAY HILL. This charming brasserie, located between Park and Madison, is the natural extension of chef-restaurateur Terrance Brennan's renowned cheese service (he'd already raised eyebrows with his French-Med gem, Picholine, which opened in 1993). The wine list (160 labels) and cheese, of course, are the headline-makers here, and there's a lot to be said for stopping by to enjoy the evening pairings. Brunch, too, is a much-praised event thanks to "plâts" like buttermilk pancakes with peach compote, fish & frites, macaroni & cheese with prosciutto di parma, and croque monsieur. Corkage fee: $25. TRAIN: 6 to 33rd St