MIDTOWN EAST. One feels a subtle harmony while walking from the zinc-covered bar to the suave dining room, where black tables and comfortable banquettes complement the pleasant walnuts, caramels and creams comprising the color scheme. No, this is not your father's steakhouse. Laurent Tourondel's culinary mastery shines through in the certified Angus steaks (each of them accompanied by a sauce of your choosing). If steak isn't your thing, broiled Maine lobster, grilled tuna and spiced swordfish are available. Served in petite cast-iron pans, side dishes are à la carte. NB The complimentary cheese popovers served at the beginning of every meal are, in a word, sinful. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6, N, R, W to 59th St-Lexington Ave

Mon-Thu 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm; Fri 11:45am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm; Sat 5:30pm-11:30pm

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