WEST VILLAGE. Charm and romance exude from the redbrick walls and weathered timbers of this West Village keeper. Yes, A.O.C. Bedford is a terrific place to take that someone special, and guests can rest assured that every nuance is impeccably handled. The French regulatory term "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" is granted only to high-quality products (Spain and Italy employ comparable designations); here, this translates into superbly done dishes like free-range lamb with herb crust, suckling pig with braised endive, and paella marinera. The selection of reds and whites, too, is impressive. B.Y.O.B. on Sundays. Three-course prix fixe: $32. TRAIN: A, E, C, B, D, F to W 4th St; 1, 9 to Houston St

Sun-Thu 5:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11:30pm

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