QUEENS. Well worth the trek to Bayside, this noteworthy Thai eatery has earned its stripes by serving up spectacular fresh fish and seafood main courses like pan-seared Hawaiian ahi tuna, scallop pad pak and "poor man" lobster curry (made with broiled monkfish). If something more terrine is called for, there's also a steak noodle dish as well as a New Zealand rack of lamb and pan-seared duck breast. As for aesthetics, don't let the modest exterior fool you ­ ESS's features smooth hardwood floors, high ceilings and exposed brick walls handsomely appointed with artwork, rugs and fabrics that capture the exotic flavor of the East.

Mon-Thu 4:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 4:30pm-Midnight; Sun 3:30pm-10pm

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